Neko in Japan: 33 @ Sanjusangendo Hall (album)

May 7, 2008
Kyoto, Japan

After dropping by Kyoto Station in order to follow-up my lost bag, I wondered what I could do with the rest of my afternoon.

Where could I go walking around by myself without getting lost and end up in Gion later to see the geishas?

On the spur of the moment, I splurged and took a taxi to this temple. I had less than 20 minutes to spend inside as it was already almost 5 pm but regardless of the cost of the taxi and admission I wanted to see for myself the visually stunning spectacle said to be inside the temple's hall.

Originally founded as Rengeo-in Temple (it's official name) in 1164, the present hall dates from 1266 when it was rebuilt after a fire consumed the original temple. It has remained unchanged for the last 700 years since then. 

This temple has the distinction of having 1,001 (yes, count them!) wooden statues of the thousand-handed Buddist deity - Kannon , a.k.a. Juichimen-senju-sengen Kanzeon.

These life-sized statues were carved from Japanese cypress in the 12th and 13th centuries and are covered in gold leaf and stand side-by-side several rows deep. In the midst is a large 11 feet-high seated Kannon carved in 1254 by Takei (a famous sculptor).

You do not see 1000 hands on each statue though - there are only 40, because each hand is supposed to be powerful enough to save 25 worlds!

The hall is very long - approximately 400 feet or 120 meters...and it is the longest wooden building in Japan. The width is 50 feet or 15 meters.The long temple hall is made in the Wayo (Japanese) style architecture. 

If you are wondering why it is called Sanjusangen-do, it is because there are thirty-three spaces between the columns. Sanju san means thirty three, and this number was chosen because it is said Kannon can assume 33 different shapes on her missions of mercy. So, because there are 1,001 statues of Kannon in the hall, 33,033 shapes are possible. 

Note: 
photography or video is not allowed inside the building, so obviously I could not take pictures of all these thousand status plus the 30 other statues representing the disciples of Kannon. 

The other interesting tidbit about this temple is that because the hall was very long, in the corridor behind the statues, they held archery competitions in the olden days and still do every January 15. Traditionally, the contest is a ritual exercise intended to show young participants that an adult's life requires patience and self-control. Well, just imagine yourself trying to shoot an arrow at a piece of cloth on the other end of the hall....it does require patience and self-control!

There is also the roofed earthen fence and the South Gate, both registered Cultural Properties and which reflect the aesthetics of the 16th century.

Taken from brochure and other write-ups:
"Among the standing statues, 124 were made in the 12th century when this temple was founded, and the remaining 876 were made in the 13th century when the temple was renovated. 

The powerful and dynamic statues of Raijin, the Thunder God and Fujin, the Wind God are placed at either side of the temple hall on raised pedestals of cloud shape. The images of these gods are derived from people's fear of and gratitude for nature in the old days. These statues are representative masterpiece sculptures of the Kamakura Period (12th - 14th centuries). 

Twenty-eight images placed in a straight line in front of the 1001 Kannon statues are guardian deities which protect Kannon as well as pious Buddhists who believe in Kannon. Many of these deities, whose mythic images are expressed in a vivid manner have their origin in India. They represent Kannon's disciples and embody various virtues." 

Admission: 
600 yen for adults. 

From April to mid-May it is open daily from 8 am to 5 pm; from mid-Nov-Mar it is open daily from 9am to 4pm.

- Jul 29, '08 4:18 PM