Neko in Japan: Nightingales at Nijo (album)

May 7, 2008
Nijo Castle (Nijo-jo), Kyoto

I can hardly believe that more than two and a half decades ago, I was reading Bobbsey Twins and the Goldfish Mystery and wistfully wondering if I would ever visit this castle which had the "nightingale floors". 

The book's setting was Japan and it was one of the sites that the twins had visited. You could say that it was the huge pile of Bobbsey Twins and Nancy Drew books I had gone through during my younger years, which added to my thirst for travel. Years later, and at the last moment, I decided to include this in my itinerary after I visited the Imperial Palace.

If I had to choose only one castle to visit while in Kyoto, I would choose Nijo over the Kyoto Imperial Palace (which is located north-east of Nijo Castle).

One, you have plenty of time to go through the castle and gardens which makes for a more relaxed picture-taking spree (?), and two, you get to tour the interior of the castles on your own.

You cannot however, take pictures of the wall paintings (done by famous artists of the Kanō school) decorating the sliding doors and walls nor of the gold leaf and wood carvings decoration. However, I was having the time of my life tiptoeing cautiously across the corridor floors which was one of the most intriguing features of the castle. 

The floors squeak like nightingales every time anybody would trod on them. I admit that once or twice as I was peeking into the rooms I was imagining myself as a ninja or assassin out to get the shogun while alternately walking and tiptoeing across the floors in my stockinged feet!

The gardens are also extensive and were designed by the renowned gardener Kobori Enshu.

Nijo Castle (Nijojo) was built by Tokugawa Ieyasu, founder of the Edo Shogunate, as the Kyoto residence for himself and his successors. The palace building now known as Ninomaru ("secondary castle"), was completed in 1603 and enlarged by Ieyasu's grandson Iemitsu. It survives in its original form and is famous for its Momoyama architecture. It is built almost entirely of Japanese cypress, and boasts delicate transom woodcarvings and paintings.

Iemitsu also added the Honmaru ("main castle") including a five storied castle tower to Nijo Castle. However, the original Honmaru structures were destroyed by fires in the 18th century, and the present building was moved there from the Imperial Palace in 1893. 

How to get here:
Go down at Nijojo-mae Station on the Tozai Subway Line. From Kyoto Station, take the Karasuma Subway Line to Karasuma Oike Station and transfer to the Tozai Line. The whole trip from Kyoto Station takes about 15-20 minutes.

Admission: 600 Yen. Hours: 8:45 to 17:00 (admission until 16:00). 

Tips: Do rent the audio guide as it will augment your knowledge of the significance of what you are viewing. (I didn't do this thats why I'm telling you!).

I did however visit the "Nijo Castle 400th Anniversary Gallery", also located on the castle grounds. This was established in March 2004 to preserve the Ninomaru Palace paintings designated as National Important Cultural Properties. In the exhibition area, you can find information on the paintings (which you can view thru glass walls) and see the different artifacts excavated within the castle premises.

- Jul 21, '08 4:15 PM